The Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre et Maine Le "L" D'Or 2009 $20 ***/****+ is light yellow in color with a bright, transparent bouquet of creamy pineapple and peach fruit and an almost effervescent mineral quality, like a bottle of exploding mineral water. There is also a hint of varnish in the nose. The Luneau has a full mouthfeel, with tight, solid, focused flavors of lemon, peach and pineapple and a very beguiling perfume, as well as a truckload of minerals. While the wine seemed dense and almost viscous on first opening, with air it becomes lighter, open and more crystalline in quality, with a lovely mineral-infused finish. I may be underrating this wine. It seemed rather austere and ascetic at first but blossomed with air. Tasted July 2011. Where to buy? Chambers Street Wines